Chef and model Rose Traore he checked the boxes of huge names in New York resulting in the notoriety of his double occupations.
Mr. Traore’s biography covers periods in Eleven Madison Park and restaurant on the NoMad Hotel. He has worked as a non-public chef for high-profile clients including Soho House, a non-public club in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, and last 12 months hosted the Guggenheim International Gala. His modeling profession led to appearances for Cole Haan and Louis Vuitton.
Now he’s headed to Ivory Coast, West Africa, where he’s opened a boutique hotel and restaurant in a palm-lined seaside resort called Grand Bassam.
“I have the desire to make one other contribution to the attractive things on this country,” said Traore. “I need to alter people’s perspective.”
For years, tourism in French-speaking Africa has mainly attracted French retirees who spent lazy days in large resorts along the azure coast. But Mr. Traore’s hotel, La Fourchette de Rozeit opens at a time when a latest audience of young Americans and other Westerners is being drawn to the region by top-notch surf breaks and fashion festivals in Senegal and art shows within the Democratic Republic of Congo, Côte d’Ivoire and beyond.
Mr. Traore, 31, born in Washington to Ivorian parents, spent a part of his childhood in Ivory Coast. The country is recovering after the pandemic slowed tourism and after a deadly terrorist attack seven years ago. Tourists are flocking to Grand-Bassam again, attracted by its fishing culture, colonial architecture and laid-back beach atmosphere.
“It feels incredibly natural to open my first plant on the land where my ancestors settled and to be surrounded by so many resources,” said Traore, who was on site this month to finish the grand opening, including installing the primary, as expected, a rotating exhibition of local artists.
Mr. Traore is captivated with style, whether in the shape of food, fashion or art. I met him for the primary time 4 years ago on the opening of the gallery of the artist Kehinde Wiley, who began his own projects within the region with an artist residency in Dakar, the capital of Senegal. On the last rainy day in Lower Manhattan, Mr. Traore told me about his latest project as he looked across the East River from his perch in a sublime private club Casa Cipriani.
Our conversation was edited for length and clarity.
Your profession took off within the United States, including working on the Guggenheim Museum and preparing menus for event featuring actress Lupita Nyong’o. Why turn to a totally different project thus far away?
For the last 10 years my entire profession has been focused on working on my craft and constructing my name within the States. I really like my roots and have all the time drawn attention to Ivory Coast as a spot to which I feel instinctively connected and to which I’m grateful. This is the subsequent step that I believed was perfect as I’m still constructing my brand. Coming back to Ivory Coast keeps me grounded and is a real connection to my roots.
Tell me more about your roots.
When I used to be younger, I lived in Ivory Coast. It was the place where I lived those little moments that turned me right into a chef – being surrounded by the community, going to the market, having fun with good food with my grandparents. My mother got here to the United States and did what she was used to doing in Côte d’Ivoire, which was braiding her hair. She opened two salons in Washington that also operate today. She made a reputation for herself there. She traveled backwards and forwards to Ivory Coast and commenced constructing an actual estate business. He is a tough working entrepreneur.
What role has your mother played in your profession?
At first she didn’t quite understand what I used to be doing, but now she does. She said, “Maybe it is time for us to work together.” She bought a plot of land and we built it together. This place in Ivory Coast was just very healthy because my dad was a fisherman. It was great to finally have the ability to say that I’m grateful for where I’m, for the opportunities I got within the States and I need to return back to this place. I’ve all the time liked small boutiques where you may focus more. It can be like my home where I can host people and revel in my energy.
As a model and chef, you will have to consider that presentation is very important. Describe the hotel to me.
The hotel has a boutique feel and a really clean look. There are only six rooms. I’m going to have a classic, local dish on the menu, corresponding to braised fish with plantain leaves and attiéké (cassava-based side dish, much like couscous). Nothing too heavy, nothing too hectic. I come from the gastro world, but I like Ivorian food. I’m not here to alter the kitchen and I’m not attempting to have a stuffy place. I’m not saying I need to bring three Michelin stars to Ivory Coast. We could have a classy cuisine that appeals to the casual crowd. Depending on the hours, you will have the ability to get a fast meal and sit on the beach and calm down. We also accept VIPs occasionally, but this shouldn’t be corporate. It’s just my mom and me.
You’ve had a conventional profession as a chef, paying dues at high-profile restaurants and dealing under the guidance of famous chefs. And you had a conventional modeling profession. But being each a model and a chef is exclusive. Has it helped you stand out?
Race plays an enormous role in my history as a chef because fairly often I’m the one black person on the road within the kitchen. This trait sets me other than my culinary peers, as does my life as a model thus far. I just like the communication between what looks good and what feels good. I even have eaten nice dining throughout my profession. But this time of 12 months, people all the time call me to perform for Black History Month. I’m focused on nice dining but they need me to cook African food or soul food. I finished taking those calls.
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